8èME ARRONDISSEMENT. Third recipient of France's Michelin six-star chef award, Alain Ducasse has been hailed as a genius of haute French cuisine. Upper-scale prices accompany exquisite dishes like Bresse fowl, crawfish and cep fricassee , young roasted pigeon with sweet and sour turnip. Desserts are also worth saving room for ­ as difficult as that might be. Try an appropriate wine from a selection considered to be one of Paris's best. METRO: Alma or Marceau (line 9) or Franklin D. Roosevelt (line 1 or 9)

8èME ARRONDISSEMENT. In this elegant restaurant inside hotel Crillon, refined decor and service are standard. The food also lives up to the high-quality surroundings, thanks to an exquisite menu concocted by Chef Jean-François Piège. A fabulous brunch is available (€ 60), as well as an extraordinary dinner. Prices are relatively expensive, as befits the scene, and ties and jackets are required at dinner. Air conditioned. METRO: Concorde (lines 1, 8, 12)

4èME ARRONDISSEMENT. You won't find anything fancy at Benoit, but you will discover good traditional French cuisine. Owned by Monsieur and Madame Petit before being sold to Chef Ducasse's Group, the restaurant delivers such popular dishes as chicken cooked in a salt crust or cassoulet with fresh beans. Service is reserved, but you'll relish this true example of authentic French fare. METRO: Châtelet

4èME ARRONDISSEMENT. Since its premiere in 1864, this brasserie has cultivated a strong local following. Inside, polished wood, gleaming brass and a stained-glass dome (all Belle Epoque Style) distinguish the dining room, where hundreds of patrons are served daily. Choucroute garnie à l'alsacienne (sauerkraut presented the Alsatian way, accompanied by cured meats) is a tribute to the original owner. It, along with ocean-fresh shellfish, are Bofinger classics, served to politicians, literati and city regulars. METRO: Bastille (lines 1, 5, 8)

6èME ARRONDISSEMENT. You'll feel most welcome at Chez Maître Paul, which has a strong reputation for free-range chicken dishes and entrées made with Arbois wines. The menu specializes in regional dishes and wines, which add to the appeal of the cuisine. After enjoying a delicious dinner, top it off with chocolate fondant or walnut meringue. METRO: Odéon (line 4 or 10)